In September 2017, I visited Medellin, Colombia, also known as the ‘City of Eternal Spring.’ Its tropical climate and high Andes altitude (1,495 m / 4,905 ft) keep temperatures mild and consistent year-round.
Ever since the 1994 World Cup, I have been fascinated by Colombia and its dark, complicated past (i.e. Pablo Escobar). However, visiting Medellin, one of the world’s most dangerous cities 20 years ago, truly opened my eyes to how beautiful Colombia and the Paisa people are.
El Poblado / Parque Lleras
At the advice of several locals, I stayed in the Poblado neighborhood; it’s a young, fun, trendy, and relatively safe area. The streets and restaurants are packed late into the night, so you can walk here 24/7 and feel safe.
Where to Stay
- There are many great Airbnbs in El Poblado, but I recommend checking out these two great hostels: Selina and Happy Buddha.
- Selina is an incredible hostel, and quite honestly, much more like a boutique design hotel. The hotel is a beautiful urban property with co-working spaces, fun game rooms/TV rooms, local artisan shops, and tons of local murals and street art.
- Happy Buddha is a more traditional hostel and caters to a younger, backpacking-type crowd. It’s loud, super fun, and packed late into the night. It’s worth visiting the bar even if you’re not staying here. You’ll meet tons of great people.
Where to Eat
- We found a few killer restaurants here like Burdo, Casacodemor, and 37 Park.
- There are tons of really unique indoor/outdoor restaurants surrounded by small, wooded creeks. Do some wandering and you’ll find a gem.
- I recommend going up the hill and a few blocks away from the park itself; the street Burdo is on has tons of really cool spots with live music. You’ll quickly find a spot with locals dancing and passing around bottles of Aguardiente (“Fire Water”) — it’s awful, but a fun, local custom that you have partake in.
City Center / Medellin Free Walking Tour
- Real City Tours offers a free 3-hour walking tour of the central Medellin (morning and afternoon tours available). This is a great way to meet other travelers, see the old, central part of Medellin and do some souvenir shopping. Just head to the Alpujarra Metro Station and look for guides in white hats holding the Real City Tour signs.
- I recommend doing this tour on your first day in town; this will allow you to get your bearings on the city and get a sense for what you want to see later during your visit.
- If you’re a fan of Narcos, you’ll recognize several filming locations from the show. For example, one of the last stops on the tour ends at Parque Boliviar, one of the final scenes from Narcos Season 2.
- I had heard from several friends that Pablo Escobar and the drug trade were taboo topics to discuss with locals. However, I had a very different experience during my visit. That being said, I did find that different generations have different perspectives on the topic. Younger locals (mid-20s to mid-30s) — until recently — don’t recall a peaceful Medellin. Their childhood was terrorized by drugs and violence and they openly share these stories with visitors. Older locals, however, recall what Medellin was like before the drugs and violence, so they prefer to ignore the events from the 1980s and 1990s.
Comuna 13
- This is a very interesting barrio with colorful homes and endless blocks of street art.
- It’s well-known for the elevators which take you up the hillside and through the town/village.
- You’ll only want to spend an hour here — if you can, support the local people who sell and serve micheladas directly on their doorstep.
- We organized a tour to Comuna 13 through our hotel, but you can very easily hail a cab and tour this area on your own.
Pueblito Paisa
- This ‘little town’ is a replica of a typical turn of the century Antioquia town.
- It offers really amazing city views, but other than, it’s an overpriced tourist trap.
- If you have time, however, I recommend driving 1-2 hours outside of Medellin and visiting the authentic ‘Pueblito Paisa.’
Day Tours: Antioquia/El Peñol/Guatape
- I highly recommend spending a day or two outside of the city itself. There are dozens of old, colonial mountain towns only an hour from the city center, where you can visit local farmers’ markets and coffee farms.
- I found a company called The Andes Adventure on Trip Advisor, and the owner, Daniel set me up on a day trip throughout the Antioquia countryside. His close friend, Esteban, picked us up at our hotel and drove us through the countryside to see waterfalls, do small hikes, and visit several local villages and markets. At the the end of tour, he even offered to take us to a Independiente Medellin soccer match — if it weren’t for traffic getting back into the city, we absolutely would have done this.
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Daniel and Esteban spoke wonderful English and can easily arrange a countryside or city tour (including a guide, car, private driver, and gas): info@
theandesadventure.com.
City Views / Lookouts
- Some of the best lookouts in Medellin are about 10-15 minutes from El Poblado.
- Take a cab up the hill just before sunset — it’ll be worth it.
- One of the lookouts has great drinks and blankets (but skip the food): El Zarzal Estadero.
Parque Arvi
- I didn’t make it here because we didn’t have the time, but all the locals recommended it.
- It sounds like the easiest way to escape the busy city for a few hours.