Almost every travel agent will give you the following itinerary:  San Jose → Arenal → Monte Verde → Manuel Antonio. While that trip will allow you to see a ton (cloud forests, waterfalls, national parks, wildlife, beaches, etc.), these places are also the most touristy.

In my opinion, Arenal and Monte Verde can by skipped without a ton of regret — Arenal is beautiful and relaxing, but I’d only want to be here on my honeymoon. Also, now that Arenal is taking a nap (it hasn’t erupted since 2010), it’s not a must see. Other than the lush could forests, there’s nothing here you can’t see elsewhere.

My favorite parts about Costa are the remote beaches, roadside restaurants (“sodas”) and fruit stands. I recommend getting away from the crowds to experience why this country is so special. It’s safe, relatively easy to navigate during the dry season, and the locals in these small towns are eager to show you the Pura Vida lifestyle.


I don’t have much advice on the Caribbean side, but there’s a lot more to see on the Pacific. This 12-day itinerary will allow you to see quite a bit of Costa Rica:

Day 1: Arenal Volcano
Day 2: Monte Verde
Days 3-5: Guanacaste
Days 6-7: Nosara
Days 8-10: Mal Pais
Days 11-12: Manuel Antonio

Transportation

    • Rental Car
        • I do recommend renting a car (you’ll need one to do the route above). It’s not cheap, but it will allow you to see so much more.
      • Also, get a 4X4, as many of the roads near the beach are unpaved (during the rainy season they may be impassable without 4X4). I rented a car from U-Save in January 2013 and had a great experience with them.
  • Local Airlines
      • There are also some very affordable domestic airlines: Sansa and NatureAir.
      • They fly to almost every spot on the above itinerary, and it will save you a ton of time. For example, driving from San Jose – Tamarindo is 4-5 hours; however, the flight is only 45 minutes.
    • UPDATE: NatureAir has temporarily ceased operations. Please visit the NatureAir site for updated schedules and dates of operation.

Lodging / Housing

There are hotels and resorts everywhere; however, I typically rent a place when staying on the beach. I’ve rented places in Tamarindo from the following two companies and would highly recommend them both:

Blue Water Properties
RPM Costa Rica

Day 1: Arenal

Highlights: Waterfall Hikes and Spas

    • La Fortuna Waterfall
        • While in the mountains, make sure you see this. It’s a few minutes outside of Arenal and a short hike from the trail head.
      • There’s also an awesome zip line that goes over the top of the waterfall.
  • Other Activities
      • There are tons of things to do in Arenal (ATVs, horseback riding, zip lines, white water rafting, hot springs, etc.).
    • Personally, I’d save these activities for another location, such as Monteverde or Guanacaste. Arenal is the place to hit the spa and relax, like at Nayara Springs.

Day 2: Monteverde

Highlights: Zip line (Canopy Tour)

Monteverde is famous for its cloud forests and canopy tours (i.e. zip lining). Beware: Monteverde is usually pretty wet and cold. I’ve spent a several days in Monteverde and Arenal over the years, but I have never seen the top of the volcano on a clear day. It’s a cloud forest for a reason.

    • Zip line
        • 100% Adventura is the best zip line in Costa Rica (perhaps all of Central America).
      • They have a 2km zip line (aka the “Superman Zip line”) and a ridiculous Tarzan Swing. This may be the best $40 you’ll spend. 
  • Fruit stands
      • Down the hill from Monteverde and en route to the beach, there will be a ton of roadside fruit stands. If you can, stop and taste everything you can. It’ll be worth eating things you can’t pronounce.
    • If you like string cheese, ask for Queso Palmito (literal translation: hearts of palm cheese), Central America’s version of mozzarella.

Days 3-5: Guanacaste

Highlights: Beaches, Surfing and Nightlife

Tamarindo is where I spent the most time in Costa Rica; it is touristy, but it caters to the American surf scene. There are a ton of hostels in town and the nightlife is pretty fun. It’s worth making this a hub for 2-3 days because there are many beautiful beaches in the area (see my post on the Top 10 Beaches in Guanacaste).


    • Yoga
      • Yoga retreats are everywhere, but if you’re in Tamarindo, check out Langosta Beach Club.
      • It’s worth visiting even if you’re not looking for a workout.
    • Surfing
      • They organize tours all over Guanacaste and will take you to the best spots.
    • Snorkeling
        • Marlin del Rey Sunset Cruise (1:30pm-5:30pm) This is a must-do while you’re in Tamarindo. It’s $85/person but this price is all-inclusive: lunch, drinks (alcoholic if you prefer), snorkeling equipment (fins, snorkel, mask), etc.
      • I was worried this was going to be a sloppy ‘booze cruise’ but my mom loved it.
  • Fishing
      • One of the best days of fishing I’ve ever had was on this boat: The Bushwacker. It’s not cheap, but we landed 3 Dorado and 2 Sailfish they day I went (all you can eat fish tacos and ceviche, anyone?).
    • Also, when the fish weren’t biting, we saw turtles, humpback whales, and literally thousands of dolphins (I’m not exaggerating). Not a bad day on the ocean if you ask me.

Days 6-7: Nosara

Highlights: Beaches & Yoga Retreats

Nosara is about halfway between Tamarindo and Mal Pais. If you’re looking for remote beaches, this is where you’ll find them here. This could be a good way to break up the drive from Tamarindo to Santa Teresa (you’ll pass dozens of beaches you’ll want to stop and see). Stay here a couple nights if you have the time.

Days 8-10: Mal Pais

Highlights: Surfing, Waterfalls & Snorkeling (Isla Tortuga)

Mal Pais is a great contrast from the hustle and bustle of Tamarindo (far less Americans here, too). In Mal Pais, you can’t see buildings from the beach…it’s what all of Costa Rica should be like. In Mal Pais there are several connected beaches (Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Playa Cocal, and Playa Hermosa); they’re each different and worth seeing.

    • Playa Santa Teresa
      • This is where most of the hostels are. Absolutely beautiful.
      • Tom Brady and Gisele have a house here. I recommend staying here if possible.
    • Playa Carmen
      • This is where the nightlife and larger hotels are
    • Mal Pais (the town)
        • Small fishing village
      • Rent a boat for a couple hours if you want to catch dinner
    • Isla Cubuya
        • Just outside of Mal Pais is a small town called Cabuya.
        • In Cabuya, there’s an island that is only accessible during low tide…on the island is a cemetery. It’s freaking creepy, but check it out if you have time.
      • I recommend renting a quad or scooter in Santa Teresa so you can see the surrounding areas.
    • Montezuma
        • Montezuma is a really cool, hippy beach town.
      • It has a gorgeous beach and some must-see waterfalls (just a short hike from town). It’s worth spending a day (or more) here.
  • Isla Tortuga
      • From Montezuma/Santa Teresa, you can take a day trip to this island on a catamaran.
    • I’ve heard it’s amazing and I’m bummed I didn’t do it. The snorkeling is supposed to be some of the best there is.

Days 11-12: Manuel Antonio

Highlights: Nature & Wildlife

From Puntarenas it’s a few hours’ drive to Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica’s first National Park. It’s the most touristy part of the country, but an absolute MUST-SEE.

  • National Park
      • The park is covered with wild animals and endangered species (monkeys, sloths, snakes, iguanas, bats, jaguars, macaws, tucans, you name it).
      • Make sure you book a guide so they can show you the animals; you’ll need binoculars and an expert to see most them.
    • Be careful, the monkeys are cute, but they’re also huge a-holes; they’ll steal your backpack if you leave it unattended and they’ve been known to fist fight toddlers. The beaches in this park are absolutely gorgeous. Manuel Antonio is exactly what you’d expect Costa Rica to look like.

San Jose

I’ve only explored San Jose with locals, so I’m unsure what’s safe for tourists. If you have a few hours in the city, here’s what I’d recommend:

  • National Museum
    • This is one of the few places where you can see pre-Columbian artifacts.
  • La Feria (Farmers Market)
    • If you find yourself the city on a Saturday morning, I highly recommend finding a Farmers’ Market.
    • They’ll have food, fruit, and vegetables you can’t find anywhere else in the world. Ask for maracuya (passion fruit) – it’s straight from the gods…amazing!
  • Volcanoes
    • San Jose is surrounded by volcanoes and a few are a just couple hours outside of the city: Poas and Irazu.
    • They’re not a must-see, but if you have the time to kill, check ‘em out.

By the time you hit Manuel Antonio, you’ll pretty much have seen it all. Keep in mind that this is still a pretty rugged country when you get the beaches (dirt roads only), and everything is a 2-4 hour drive. Have fun, be safe, and relax. Pura Vida!